Every few months or so I get asked a fair number of questions, most concerning worth of wings, authentication of wings, sometimes identification of wings. I have tried to supply some basic information below that may help novice wing collectors.
 
 
 

FAQ1.  What is this wing worth?

The short answer is what do you want to spend on it!

The long answer is more complex.  I usually look at 3 GENERAL factors:

**Prices are based on my experiences with EBay auctions and at gun/militaria shows. Assume wide variations in prices.

  1. (a)    The rarity of the wing-

  2. (b)    The rarity of the maker of the wing (sort of arbitrary)-

  3. (c)    The condition/beauty of the wing (totally arbitrary)-

Some patterns are very unique and well crafted, while others are just run-of-the-mill.  You know what you like, so pay accordingly.

Retail price ranges:
Low end)   A common pilot wing without hallmark        ~25-50$
High end)   WWI pilot wings                                              ~1500-3000$!!

General rule of thumb.  Sterling, pin back wing with a hallmark is going to cost ~25-100% more than a non-sterling, clutch back wing.


FAQ2.  How do I tell the fakes from the real things?

There are no easy, 100% foolproof ways to tell the fakes from the original WWII wings.  However, with some simple guidelines and rules, you may avoid the worst of the junk out there.  (Click here for more)


FAQ3.  What is the deal with sterling vs non-sterling wings?

Many USAAF wings were made of sterling silver (92.5% silver).  On the other hand, a large number of wings were made of non-precious metals.  In fact, many of the foreign wings (which are the rarest and most valuable of wings) were not made of silver.

One myth is that all WWII era wings were made of sterling silver, but this is not true. For example, some manufacturers made both cheap, low quality, non-silver wings, and more expensive, higher quality sterling silver wings.

FAQ4.  What is a "graduation" or issue wing?

1)  Upon graduation, new pilots, navigators, aircrew, etc., were issued (at government expense) a set of wings of the appropriate designation usually called "issue" or "graduation" wings.  They were mandated by law to be of specific size, weight, dimension, and metal content (sterling silver).  They were not to have any hallmarks on them and were to have the clutch back type fasteners.

2)  Additional wings could be purchased through the PX, uniform stores, jewelry stores, and local craftsmen.  Many companies made wings for private purchase; some were silver, some were not, some were pin back, some only made clutch back.  Some companies had both low and high end wings for purchase.

FAQ5.  Are clutch back wings really post-WWII?

Perhaps one of the most commonly repeated myths about wings is that only WWII era wings were made with pin backs.  This is simply not true, both types were used through out the war.  Most graduation wings are clutch back (per regulations), but many privately bought wings were also made with clutches (it seems that clutch back wings were easier to apply to the uniform, and remained tightly in place, whereas pin backed wings had a tendency to be off center and loose on the uniform).

Furthermore, when wings either lost or had the pin broken due to use/accident the attachments had to be replaced by local jewelers.  So it is possible that a wing may have started out life as a clutch back, but been repaired with a pin back or vice-a-versa (I have seen many wings with these type of repairs).

FAQ6.  What does a number/letter (apha-numeric) hallmark mean on the back of a wing mean?

In the 1950's, the U.S. government issued an alphanumeric code to individual manufactures of insignia.  Wings were to be marked with a number followed by a letter, such as 9M (N.S. Meyer's code).  In the late 60's, the government amended their code to a two digit number followed by a letter, such as 22M (N.S. Meyer's new code) and are post 1960's vintage.